Qyzylorda To Shymkent  15th June 2011

Still struggling to find a wifi connection that works with my laptop so still working off my handset.
14th June the ride from Qyzylorda to Shymkent was pretty straightforward and the Russian iPhone sat nav app got me straight to the Kama Hotel. Big old Soviet job. No hot water til late evening and reception shuts at 7ish, so book early to avoid disappointment.
Total kms today 460 in 7 hours. The road is pretty good, some new tarmac, some old, some off road where the old tarmac has been dug up.
I really like Shymkent. On arrival and after a refreshing cold shower I found a great little courtyard restaurant just round the corner and had the best lamb kebab ever. Way better even than Kebab King opposite Putney station. True.
The waiter wanted to know if I was the “round face” that married his older sister. Apparently I look like him.
Went for a two hour walk around the city. It’s the most cosmo of the cities I’ve been to yet. Loads of different cultutes coming together and blending well.

And, really, if you were going to open a bar in Shymkent, would you call it Arsenal?

Aktobe To Qyzylorda  13th June 2011

12th and 13th June.

I like Aktobe. It looks like a much older city than the ones I’ve seen so far, so has more soul and a centre to it which seems to focus around the area where I stayed called Holiday Park. Same great people too, friendly, helpful, wanting to chat about the bike, where I’m from etc. On the way out of the city as I was leaving, a bus driver with a bus full of people on board, flagged me down and we had a chat in the middle of the main boulevard in the middle of town. Traffic at a stand still but no one seems bothered, they’re quite happy for us to take our time.

As I was loading up outside the hotel I met a Kazakh couple who spoke perfect English. Thet were from Almaty and had driven the M32 (the main road that connects Aktobe and Almaty) several times and confirmed it was way better than the A27 of the previous days.

Managed to find a jet wash place on the way out of time so finally got a chance to clean off the glue-like clay from the two minor crashes. There were a bunch of local guys getting their cars cleaned ready for a wedding later that day. The groom was with them and was looking very edgy. We all chatted in broken English and sign language and again I got the feeling that these are the sort of people you could become good mates with.

Not far to Almaty and Urumqi

Anyway … the next stage. I have some great video and pics which I’ll try to upload later. But the M32 became my new mistress for a while. Curvy, smooth and gorgeous. But that relationship was to turn sour later.

The first couple of hundred kms were just stunning. Great roads, spectacular scenery, very little traffic, wildlife aplenty. The eagles are an amazing site. Can anyone tell me what sort they are? Huge, brown feathers with white patches on wings. Also I keep seeing dozens of what look like small Meercats, but smaller, more stoat like with dark brown tips on tails. Anyone?

And the suicidal crickets. Millions in swarms crossing the main roads from one sand dune to the next. The first swarm I saw I thought someone had dropped a load of stones on the road. Then I realised it was moving. Would love to know what that was all about.

I’ve driven through the US a couple of times, and having grown up in small places like Wales and Portugal, you’re immediately struck by the scale of the place, and I know the US has a bigger land mass but Kazakhstan seems takes it to a whole new level. Loving it.

It’s not quite desert, but it’s barren, hot, dusty, and spectacular. Each bend reveals more great views and the horizons seem further away than anywhere else I’ve been.

Then about 100kms or so short of Aral the road changes and alternates between fresh Tarmc, pot holed rough old roads and no road at all so all traffic is on the dirt tracks that run parallel. A mix of sand, gravel, hard clay (that turns slippery when even a tad damp) and loose dirt. It certainly keeps it interesting.

I was looking forward to seeing Aral and what remains of the lake, but to be honest it was a little disappointing. All the ship wrecks have gone bar one, and the lake has receded even further. The town looks really run down and depressed (total opposite to the towns I’ve visited so far). I’ve also been told that unemployment and crime is high, so after a quick ride around I decided to crack on and get to Qyzylorda and a day off, which means a straight 24 hours riding. I’m sure I was starting to lose the plot by the time I arrived. Chuntering away to myself in my helmet and at one point I’d convinced myself that that big cloud up ahead is a space ship.

Note to self … no more 24 hour rides!

Got to Qyzylorda about 5:30 AM local. Had a few hours kip and a shower and went for a wander round the city. Like Atyrau it’s expanding rapidly and from what I can tell looks like a pretty propsperous and up coming town. The parks and local facilities look a little tatty, but there’s work going on everywhere.

I’ll go wandering again tonight to see if I can find a bar with some music.

The bike is looking a little battered. Every now and then I get a pang of guilt for taking a brand new bike and battering it like this. Since cleaning off all the muck I’m noticing more minor damage. Nothing that can’t be fixed. I’ll be staying in Almaty for a few days so will try to find a garage to carry out a full service as it’s almost due.

Check out videos for the Aqtobe – Aral – Qyzylorda on You Tube

Donations  13th June 2011

Thanks again to everyone for their donations and support.

I’d love to try to raise a few grand by the time I finish, so if anyone has any suggestions or ideas on how to help raise that, please get in touch

Sarah Outen London To London  13th June 2011

Hi all,

Before I update the blog, just thought I’d mention this.

Twice in the last 24 hours I have had a petrol pump attendant and cafe owner shouting “Sarah, Sarah” and making handlebar gestures. I’m thinking lady biker. Then earlier today I bumped into two Czech bikers, Jan and Marek on an XT and Guzzi (both with over 100,000 kms on the clock) on their way to Krygistan, so we stopped and had lunch together. They told me they met Sarah yesterday near Aral, and she’s not on a motorcycle, but using human power to circumnavigate the world – check out her site – makes my trip look like a trip down Tescos.

I hope I bump into her on the road somewhere.

Greetings from Aktobe  11th June 2011

Hi all.
I finally made it to Aktobe. I decided to take the direct route, left Atyrau at 10 on 10 June, camped in the middle of nowhere last night and got here about 1pm local time.
The A27 from Atyrau! Apart from about 20kms each end, it’s off road all the way. And just for good measure the rain slammed down twice causing me to drop my precious Tiger twice. I’m im one piece but the bike is caked in mud, one pannier short, damaged brake and gear levesr, damaged end can, and damage pride.
Both times had to wait for someone to come past to get the bike upright. My back is the biggest issue since pulling it in Ukraine. Tried to lift it again on my own and something went crack! Massage and therapy in order, I think
I think my helmet cam was working when I dropped it the first time so standby for videos and pics. UPDATE: It was! Will post in a few mins

More later once I’ve had a shower & food.

Had the shower, but no food yet.

Just spoke to Orange. My data usage has gone through the roof, with a massive bill, so no more updates from the road unless I can find wifi like the hotel here (which by the way is like the Shining hotel, but in a city … in Asia … you get the idea. Gonna roam the corridors later with an axe shouting “Here’s Philly”)

Anyway, I digress. That ride (10th and 11th June) was hard but well worth the pain of the two “offs”. Big eagles, some in pairs every couple of miles. Great people. All honking their horns and waving. If I stop to fuel up or eat within seconds people are coming up asking where I’m from, where I’m going, how much the bike costs, how fast it goes etc. Even the police. Got stopped this morning (11th) on the way in to Actobe. All they wanted was to look at the bike. Keeps me happy. And just awesome riding. I’m really finding out where my limits are that’s for sure.

Bumped into an English couple Nina and Cluve on their way back from Almaty to Norfolk, so we had a quick 5 minute break. They were saying the road was the worst they’s ever encountered, and they weren’t pleased to hear what I’d just left behind.Great couple. Their web site about there motorcycle adventures is here
Check out the gallery for pics.

Sound track songs for the two days are

The Sky Is Crying – Gary More
Dont Cha Wanna Ride – Joss Stone

Atyrau at last  9th June 2011

New Church in downtown Atyrau Kazakhstan

Finally made it to Atyrau and hotel, shower and food.
I was hoping that my new mates in the Kazakh army would let me stay until sun up this morning, but no …. the clock struck 12 and I was out of there, no messing.
Everything of course was shut so had to leg it through the night on the worst roads yet with rain showers on new nobbly rubber …. stress level was at the max. Used up my reserve fuel as well as only found one petrol station open and he wanted Tenge only.
Made it in one piece and found local insurance for just a few quid (different to border prices, by a long way).
Have some other stuff to sort out then off “downtown” Atryrau for something to eat and a wander.
Phone signal is very patchy here by the way.
Song of the day – Come On Baby by Joe Satriani. Just seemed to fit riding due east in the middle of the night watching the sun rise over Atyrau.

One night to go  8th June 2011

Dima, the lieutentant and top boss here and his guys are making me so welcome. They are genuinely lovely people. Will be sad to say goodbye in the morning.

Still here  7th June 2011

Still stuck at the border. My bruv Rich and mate Conrad have been hammering thr phones at Embassies, consuls et al to see if they can get me though early but no joy yet.
Then just I was bedding down in my dust encrusted sleeping bag for another night being bitten to death, an amazing thing happened. The boss man came over to my tent, took me over to the staff canteen, fed me fried eggs on bread and ice cold water (best meal ever) then took me across the border to a shop and bought me fresh cold water, biscuits and an ice cream and would not take a penny. What a great bloke. I’ve got his address and will be sending him loadsa goodies from England when I get back. I’m genuinely overwhelmed and was at the end of my tether. Between him, Rich & Conrad they’ve kept my spirits up. Only one more day and night here then I’m on my way. Easy 🙂
Another little gem I got today from the two lads who run the foot and mouth decontamination unit where cars and trucks drive through, is this … To keep these pesky flies from constantly buzzing round your head & getting up your nose, in your mouth & ears is to rub powdered vanilla over your face and hair. Works a treat for a couple of hours and helps to cover up the nasty whiff that’s starting to come off me.
I’ve offered to help the two lads out directing cars tomorrow!
View from my tent

About 20 mins after I took this picture the boss man came back out and in sign language (he speaks no English and my Russian extends to about 5 phrases) told me to break camp and follow him.

He found me a space in the secure TIR park in the military compound for the Tiger, took me into the barracks and said help myself to the shower, food, water and the facilities. I’m stunned and delighted at the same time.

He’s a top bloke. All the soldiers under his command (including the one who spotted the visa discrepenacy) came up for a chat at some point all offering different opinions on which route to go to get to Almaty and the Chinese border. A few spoke good English and over breakfast the second day we agreed I had a new Kazakh family. There’s a real family atmosphere about the place.

Dima (the boss) can’t be more that 25-30, looks a little like Christian Slate, commands huge respect from all his staff. When he walks in the room by christ you know it. Everyone’s on their feet, snapped to attention! Me included!

So I’m now billeted in the army lounge, kipping in a big armchair with multi channel TV. At one point I was even watching St Helens v Leeds in Super League in Russian trying to explain the differences between League (northern monkeys) and Union (proper bloke’s rugby) over a shared bottle of Lipton’s ice tea.

If Carlsberg did stuck in no man’s land between Russia and Asia for 3 days this would be it.

I’ve heard that Kazakh hospitality is second to none, but this experience has been a real eye opener. I hope they never loose that under the onslaught of western captialism and cynisism. Spelling’s all to cock, but it’s late.

I was even given mobile phone numbers for the boss with the message if I need help just shout. Lovin’ it!

Still at Kazhak Border  7th June 2011

Still stuck at the Kazhak border and it’s grim. My brother is trying to contact different authorities to see if I can get in early but as things stand I’m here til the 9th.
Finnish biker called Erkki just pulled up with a similar problem but he has multiple entry visa for Russia so he is heading back and then north until his visa kicks in. He kindly left me a book in English so I have something to read.

Major cock up  6th June 2011

Stuck in no mans land between Russia and Kazakhstan. The start date on my visa isn’t properly legible. Border guards say it is valid for 1 month so start date is 9th. Cant go back as Russia won’t let me back in as I only have 1 entry. Anyone have any Kazakh strings they can pull?

The ride here should have been short. Leaving Astrakhan the signs for Atyrau (or the Russian spelling) are pretty clear then they suddenly stop, so took me twice as long to get to the border. Still great fun riding then. Had to cross this metal plate pontoon bridge with new rubber nobblies and a front wheel wobble. What a laugh. I wanted to go back and do it again!